I have fond childhood memories of eating whole fish on family vacations in the lush areas of Northern Iran near the Caspian sea. Seafood was abundant, especially trout and whitefish (ghezel ala), often fried whole. The appetizing aroma of crispy fried trout mingling with the salt-kissed ocean air was delightful. The seafood was fresh, prepared simply with herbs and garlic, and at times with a squeeze of Seville orange (Naarenj). Fresh fish, aromatic herbs, uncomplicated, delicious. The flavor memories of these relaxed summer outings co-mingle with recollections of happy weekend road trips, lush orchard picnics, and river-side camp sites where the sound of the rumbling stream was as lovely as the family banter. Often, a whole watermelon was placed in nearby streams to keep it cool for post meal consumption. This specific memory of a watermelon floating in water is filed under the enchanting simple moments of life that make you smile (photo below).
The golden whitefish were often accompanied by pickles (torshi), and steamed buttery rice, but the fish was the highlight. Enticing flavors, only second to the pleasant breeze and ruby red geraniums ubiquitous to the seaside villas we inhabited. These casual family moments by the sea and lighthearted afternoons in the sun colored my childhood with happiness and delight.
This recipe is my homage to those memories. I bake not fry the fish and incorporate another favorite northern Iranian ingredient: pomegranate. Savory zaatar and olive oil are added for a rustic but elegant dish. Baked, light and flakey whole fish is an enjoyable way to experience seafood — by the sea or in our urban kitchen, wherever we may be.
The recipe comes together quickly in about 30 minutes. Golden olive oil brings all the flavors together and the sweetness of the pomegranate molasses lacquers while cooking creating a magical sweet and sour and savory flavor combination.
You can skip the pomegranate and za’atar and simply dress the fish with olive oil while stuffing the cavity with lemons, a clove of garlic and herbs (say rosemary or thyme). Whatever you put in the cavity perfumes the entire fish while cooking.
Ingredients
2 whole fish, like branzino or black bass, roughly 1 pounds each, cleaned and gutted by the fish market 1/3 cup olive oil 2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses 1 teaspoon zaatar (adjust to taste) Lemon Salt and pepper to taste
Preparation
Preheat oven to 400°F.
Using a sharp knife, make four diagonal, parallel slashes on each side of the fish, scoring the skin.
Using a brush or your fingers, rub olive oil, enough to fully coat the flesh and the skin on the inside and outside of the fish, then season inside and out with salt and pepper.
In a bowl, add the remaining olive oil with the pomegranate molasses and zaatar, whisking rapidly until combined.
Cover the inside and outside of the fish with the pomegranate mixture, reserving a small amount, about a quarter for serving. Place fish in a roasting pan- ensuring the fish are not touching and the pan is not crowded.
Roast fish for about 30 minutes or until cooked through. Cooking time can vary due to fish size. Cook until the skin is browned and the flesh is opaque.
Place fish in a serving plate and drizzle with remaining pomegranate–olive oil mixture. Balance sweetness developed while cooking with a splash of fresh lemon juice and enjoy immediately.
~Tip~ Preparing a whole fish may seem intimidating but it’s not as difficult as it seems. Cooking a fish whole results in more flavor from the skin and the bones. Just make sure the fish is fresh. The eyes should be clear and the fish should look shiny, not dull in color. And as always with selecting any fish, it should smell like the ocean and not “fishy.”
* Persian tradition of cooling watermelons in a stream while picnicking.
Musical Inspiration – Mah O Mahi (The Fish and The Moon), Hojat Ashrafzadeh
